Some Notes on the Machines

A very interesting .EXE which appears to be able to upgrade Build 1909 directly to 22H2.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Go here in GPO:

Computer Configuration\Policies\Windows Settings\Security Settings\Local Policies\Security Options

and set:

Interactive logon: Machine inactivity limit

Enforce a zero to make sure it never happens.

Try it. https://www.betterbird.eu/. The Thunderbird team has been ignoring huge quantities of bugs and usability issues for decades. They kicked out a profoundly gifted developer several years ago, who has been leading Betterbird, a careful “soft fork” of Thunderbird, which maintains all helpful interoperability while fixing many, many bugs. Betterbird is lighter and faster, it does CardDav address books natively to Gmail and other providers, it has a far better HTML email composer, and much, more more!

Try the free version here:

www.magicaljellybean.com/keyfinder/

Try URLs like this, for an ISO of Windows 10 build 1909:

https://archive.org/details/windows-1909

Unfortunately, archive.org lacks the bandwidth for rapid downloads of monsters like those. Here’s a source which can set you up to do it in 10 minutes if your side is fast enough:

https://www.heidoc.net/joomla/technology-science/microsoft/67-microsoft-windows-and-office-iso-download-tool

This one has a lot of very nice performance tweaks, and a defrag within that seems to do a good job, though one cannot defrag an SSD, only TRIM.

www.wisecleaner.com/wise-care-365.html

This has become fraught with peril lately, even after initiation it can be far from easy to figure out what to do next. What to do next, after the transfer has initiated, is, we browse here:

www.networksolutions.com/manage-it/transfer-status.jsp

and we put the transfer authorization code, from the outgoing registrar, after finding the appropriate Network Solutions account number for the order, and scrolling in the above page (if there are more than one; if you do a lot of this, there will be a pile, if not, just one) to find that account number. Then open the account and enter the code.

If you have trouble finding that account number, browse here:

www.networksolutions.com/my-account/order-history

and the account number will be listed with the order for the transfer.

Sometimes, the legacy/traditional Devices and Printers window does not come up in Windows 11. If you see this, browse to this in File Explorer:

shell:::{A8A91A66-3A7D-4424-8D24-04E180695C7A}

Run it like this from administrative CMD, in two steps. In the first step just check everything off. The second step runs it all. Cleans a whole lot more than any other way, and after you do the first step, the second step stays put, the number is actually the maximum index of sets of cleanup that you can keep around for future semi/automatic use.

Cleanmgr /sageset:65535 

Cleanmgr /sagerun:65535

I have an Evercross H5 and an NIU KQ3i. I like the careful design and self-control of the NIU, but I have had to do a few things. Here’s a reference pic of my NIU:

First of all, on every single screw of the stem, I’ve added Blue Permatex Gel. This has kept them all from loosening.

Secondly, concerning the two silver screws on each opposite side near the bottom of the stem. These loosened often for me, even with B.P.G. I thought about trying Red Permatex, but there’s common advice to avoid this because you’re not going to get the screw out without serious heat, and we’re screwing into aluminum here. So I looked far and wide, and found some thin countersink washers that fit:

from McMaster-Carr (a great source for lots of things, click on the image for detail)

and used one of those on each silver screw. By the time I got that far, I had stripped the head of one of the silver screws, and I replaced it using McMaster:

You’ll notice that my replacement is Torx, not hex; this is deliberate, Torx is more resistant to stripping. Also, that screw is made of a very durable alloy. Have had zero trouble with either silver screw since.

I also tightened the larger hex bolts further down, you can see one of the two in the first pic above.

Lubrication has been helpful also, around bearings and really all over, though you don’t want it on your brake disks. The best so far has probably been CRC Electrical Silicone Lubricant. The “Electrical” part is very important because this is a very electrical device, and we don’t want anything sneaking in and either damaging or shorting anything out!